An upstanding wired lace collar called a rebato was also fashionable at this time. Therefore, hair was worn up rather than hidden in a Gable or French Hood of the early 1520's. This period was also a very significant one in history as it is the first time in England that young married women did not cover their hair and just wore jewelled ornaments and/or cauls. Cauls were made from cloth or net, and were often decorated with pearls and jewels; they mostly covered a back part of the hair. Bun covers were used, to add interest to a simple bun. Before this time, it was unheard of for any class of woman to show her hair after she was married.
Mary Curzon Countess of Dorset 1585 - 1645
(Example of laced collar)
Eleonora da Toledo (1522 – 1562)
A Spanish noblewoman
(Example of Cauls)
The second notable development was the increase in popularity of hats. Hat bands were an extremely important part of the hat fashion and people started to specialise in this trade. The hats could be made of any material, but the thin material was often quilted or embroidered to give strength and shape. The hatbands could be of any colour, flat or twisted, embroidered or covered in jewels. Tall feathers were often added usually at the side. I read descriptions of some of the hats that Queen Elizabeth I received as presents which stated that one was “A cap of black vellat with thirteen buttons of gold in every one of them either a ruby or a diamond”. Another was described as “A cap of purple vellat set with eight dozen and six buttons of gold with a white feather”. Most interesting is the one described as “A hat of tawny taphata (Taffeta?) embroidered with scorpions of Venice gold”.
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